- STEP 061 > Now align those guides and with your X-Acto knife, slice off the end.
- STEP 062 > Now make marks with your pencil 6 cm apart at the top and the bottom of your sheet.
- STEP 063 > Align your ruler to your guides and cut each line.
- STEP 064 > Continue until you should have 2 identical 6 cm x 12 cm rectangles. One will be your temporary floor base and the other will be your clean final base.
- STEP 065 > One last little piece to cut and this time from BLACK GLOSSY VINYL sheet.
- STEP 066 > I like to use DC FIX brand. You can find it on amazon if your local stores don't carry it. Of course if you are able to find other brand locally that is great. Just make sure IT MUST BE BLACK GLOSS.
- STEP 067 > This DC Fix is originally made to put at bottom of drawers that's why it has all these convenient grids on the back. I grabbed a 6cm piece to place and get an idea of just where I had to cut to make sure I had enough width in my strip. I know I will make more doors so I can keep the strip aside for later use.
- STEP 068 > So I sliced about a 7-8 cm strip so I wouldn't damge my roll when making the 4 side cuts.
- STEP 069 > From my small strip I put marks at 6 cm and 7 cm.
- STEP 070 > Aligning my ruler to the DC Fix grids, I sliced all 4 sides until...
- STEP 071 > I got my 6 cm x 7 cm Black Glossy Vinyl rectangle.
- STEP 072 > At this point all your pieces should be cut and ready... foamcore frame front and rear, inner sides and top, black glossy vinyl floor, 2 posterboard floors and the 4 posterboard corner inner supports.
- STEP 073 > If you look at the blueprint, you will see how the centre top foamcore is sandwiched in between the 2 side pieces and all 3 flush with the inner frame NOT the outside edges.
- STEP 074 > The thickness of the frame sides is just a teeny larger than the .5 cm thickness of the foamcore so you have to make sure you align with the inner edge when glueing.
- STEP 075 > AND don't forget to align with the top and bottom as well.
- STEP 076 > Time for assembly : Start by placing a line of hot glue ONLY ON THE TOP of your side piece.
- STEP 077 > Place it carefully on your first frame piece, front or back doesn't matter - they are both the same. MAKE SURE it is CENTERED with both the top and bottom of your frame.
- STEP 078 > Most important is you want it FLUSH with the INNER FRAME sides. This is where the decals will be applied and you don't want to have a speedbump edge that will cause unsightly warping later on.
- STEP 079 > You will notice that by making the piece flush with the inner side, you will creat a very small extrusion at the back side. This is normal and nothing to be worried about. No one will see this when placed in your diorama hallway.
- STEP 080 > With your sides secure (after the hot glue cools down) it's time to slide in the top piece. Now do a DRY RUN TEST first. This will tell you if your piece is too large or not. If you cut it 11 cm to be safe vs the 10.75 cm of the blueprint it should not slide down all the way and you should have to trim like I will do next.

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Did you already build this Diorama ? At home or at our Star Wars Celebration Diorama Builders workshop ? Would you like to show it in the site’s GALLERY VISITORS DIORAMAS section, YES ? That is Awesome !!! You can find out all the details on how to email me your photos on the VISITORS SUBMISSIONS INFO page … When I get your photos, I will create your very own page just like this one. You may not realize it but work does inspire others to join in the fun of making Action Figure Dioramas.
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NOT FOR RESALE ALL Decals, tutorials and artwork are ©FrankDiorio (dioramaworkshop.com) and offered FOR FREE to the fans – that would be you ? so you can build and display my diorama designs in your very own home. I realize I cannot control what one does with my graphics once I place them on the web, I can only ask you as one fan to another, please respect the artist and do not be that jerk who uses my designs and tutorials to build a copy of my work only to sell it on EBAY or trade/sale groups and forums. Thank You. Frank.
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