STEP 021 > Now do the same at the bottom of your decals sheet. All the way across. Make sure your ruler is aligned with the RED CUTTING GUIDES !!!

STEP 022 > Time for the vertical cuts. Since I am right handed I start at the right. Use your RED CUTTING GUIDES to align your ruler and slice.

STEP 023 > Align the guides and cut down the left side of the first door frame.

STEP 024 > If you did all your cuts properly the center should just POP OUT like this. Put it aside for now.

STEP 025 > Align and cut the right side of frame 2.

STEP 026 > Align and do your last cut.

STEP 027 > Door #2 should now pop out no problemo.

STEP 028 > Now for the inside of the frame. As I mentioned earlier, for this you will be using the BLEED as your guide.

STEP 029 > You will notice when trying to cut these sides, the foamcore is way too narrow for the ruler to lay flat properly and allow you to make a precise straight cut. Wobble Wobble.

STEP 030 > To fix this, just grab a spare scrap piece of foamcore and lay it against the side. Now when you lay your ruler, the wobbles will be gone. 🙂

STEP 031 > Place your ruler flat on the scrap and door frame piece, align close to the centre of the bleed line, and what you want to do is slice ONLY between where the corner curves start. Meaning look at the Start and Stop positions in the photo and try to match that. You will deal with the corners later when you switch to a X-Acto pen that allows more precisions when doing non straight lines.

STEP 032 > Spin your door frame to access the top, put your scrap foamcore against the top frame outer edge and again, slice in between the curves. Start and Stop just before and after like you see in the photo.

STEP 033 > Again same for the other side.

STEP 034 > Now were are switching to your X-Acto pen with pointy triangle blade. As sharp (and dangerous - watch your fingers) as these are, I like to put on a NEW blade at the start of every new build. I want to make sure to make the best rounded curves possible.

STEP 035 > make sure to place your old blade in a recycling bin, I like to use 2 paper plates taped together. Leave a small gap at one end for the blades to fall into like a piggy bank.

STEP 036 > Next IMPORTANT TIP BEFORE YOU CUT !!! Try and keep your blade at 90 degrees as you see in the middle pic. Don't angle it left or right, you will cause angle cuts and that will cause problems later on when you apply your decals.

STEP 037 > Carefully insert the blade at the end of your straight line cut. This is the START of your curve cut. Now move SLOWLY and as precise as you can around the corner, staying inside the bleed zone. If you were good with colouring books - staying inside the lines - you should have no problems here 🙂

STEP 038 > keep going and turning until you connect with the next straight cut line.

STEP 039 > A good way to know if you did a good cut is to flip your frame around. If the line looks like one straight cut, then you did well and can move on to the next curve.

STEP 040 > Here is a corner we haven't cut yet, you can clearly see how the lines are not connected.


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NOT FOR RESALE ALL Decals, tutorials and artwork are ©FrankDiorio (dioramaworkshop.com) and offered FOR FREE to the fans – that would be you 🙂 so you can build and display my diorama designs in your very own home.  I realize I cannot control what one does with my graphics once I place them on the web, I can only ask you as one fan to another, please respect the artist and do not be that jerk who uses my designs and tutorials to build a copy of my work only to sell it on EBAY or trade/sale groups and forums. Thank You. Frank.
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